Betta splendens, the Siamese fighting fish.

Is it BETA or BETTA?

The Greek letter ß (pronounced BAY-TUH) is not the same as the belontiid (anabantoid) labyrinth fish which occurs naturally throughout Southeast Asia. That is the fish of the genus Betta (pronounced BET-UH). It was 1909 when C. Tate Regan named Betta splendens. There are probably very few people around today who knew Regan or how he pronounced the generic name. However, among ichthyologists today, the name is pronounced with a short “e” rather than as a long “a”.

Why is it called a “Siamese fighting fish”?

In Thailand it is common to see rows upon rows of shelves of relatively dull-colored bettas, in pint-size whiskey bottles, for sale in the town markets. These fishes bear little resemblance to the beautiful fish we keep and sell in the US. The fins are much shorter, the tails are round and the bodies seem to be stockier. These fish are being offered by the street venders for the purpose of fighting.

The males of Betta splendens, and in fact, even the females of the species are very belligerent to their own kind and often to other anabantoid fishes. The exact reason for this intolerance of each other is behavior that most likely evolved to give the most robust and aggressive males of the species access to the best nesting places and thus access to the best females. It is often said that bettas can be found, in nature, living in the muddy footprints of water buffalo in the rice paddies. In fact, bettas can be found living in nearly any suitable body of water including in water trapped in the stumps and trunks of trees which had been recently submerged by floods. Typically, such tiny bodies of water will pollute quickly and cannot easily support more than one or two fishes.

Should bettas be sold for fighting purposes?

We like to think that we live in a civilized society where animal cruelty is not tolerated. In fact, our judicial system often punishes those convicted of cruelty to animals more severely than those convicted of child abuse. Such a disparity of punishment, however does not excuse the purposeful infliction of pain and suffering upon animals; even animals as lowly as fishes.

The aquarium hobby in the US, as well as worldwide, is under attack by extreme “animal rights” groups. These groups will often not rest until the worldwide trade in aquarium fishes is brought to a complete stop. It is incumbent upon us, as responsible aquarists to keep our fishes in the best possible circumstances. Therefore, to knowingly purchase or sell bettas, or any animals, for the express purpose of fighting them for amusement is unconscionable, cruel and painful to the animals themselves.

What about keeping bettas in those little jars and cups?

As with all fishes, bettas require good water conditions. They are susceptible to both ammonia and nitrite poisoning, and they require a stable pH and water that is relatively free of pathogens. Small containers are difficult, if not impossible, to properly filter and thereby to establish and perform biological filtration. This means that to control the accumulation of ammonia is difficult.

Even bettas which are starved will excrete enough ammonia in a short enough time to quickly poison the small volume of water in which they are being kept. Well-fed bettas will, of course, potentially excrete even more ammonia. This, of course, does not mean that one should not feed bettas kept in small containers. What it does mean is that the water in such containers must have the water changed frequently (at least once a day) and that betta keepers must be aware of the quality of the water in the containers and how quickly that quality can deteriorate.

Water changes must be done to remove uneaten food, fecal matter, and other debris that can accumulate. Feeding must be done as with any tropical fish. That is, a betta should be fed frequent, small amounts of a suitable food every day. Floating dried foods (e.g. flakes, freeze-dried mosquito larvae and small pellets) are the best.

Of course, the larger the container the betta is kept in, the longer the water quality remain suitable for long-term maintenance. Keeping bettas in aquariums is the best practice, but care should be taken to keep them with other fishes which will not pick on their long fins and with which the bettas will not fight.

Other Considerations

Bettas are relatively easily spawned. The male builds a bubble nest (even the little cups and jars in which they’re kept) and entices a ripe female under the nest in an attempt to spawn. If the female is ready and receptive she will expel eggs which are fertilized by the male (as he is wrapped around the female’s body). The male collects the eggs and spits each one into the floating bubble nest. After spawning the male chases away the female and assumes all responsibilities for caring for the nest and eggs.

Once the eggs start hatching, in a few days, the male is kept quite busy trying to collect the falling fry and spitting back into the nest. Once the fry have absorbed their egg sacs and are free swimming they must be removed to a rearing tank and started on the smallest food (usually infusoria and then, as they grow brine shrimp nauplii). The young bettas will coexist for quite sometime before they require segregation to prevent fighting.

If there are any questions please call us at 816/842-5936.

(1) Change water on the bettas at least once a day using NovAqua and AmQuel to condition the water.

(2) Don’t allow bettas to fight each other.

(3) Keep the tops of betta bowls and jars covered, but not sealed, to prevent jumping.

(4) Feed the bettas a good quality floating food (freeze-dried mosquito larvae and micro-pelleted food are good).

(5) Keep the bettas warm, but do not place their bowls in direct sunlight.

(6) A plant sprig such as Java moss will give the betta cover and make it feel more secure and less likely to jump.

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